Trendbulletin: A Brief History of Pattern

Pattern, glorious pattern, steadily coming back into vogue for our homes, and even our clothing, but then the trend of decoration has followed a very trackable path, and what’s fascinating to me, is the way in which it holds up a mirror to society, offering its own unique interpretation of the prevailing zeitgeist. So are you sitting comfortably? Let’s take a dash through history to track the trail of pattern to date…

Since the dawn of time humans have sought to decorate their spaces with mark-making; inscriptions and pictures to tell their stories. Whether these were early cave paintings, Egyptian hieroglyphics or the traditional wall art of Burkina Faso, they were also a notation of belonging; ‘patterns’ to signify ownership — a statement from the scribe that ‘this place is mine’. However, until mankind lived longer than the medieval average of 30 years, decoration within a dwelling was not exactly a priority. Any sense of ornament was primarily the preserve of objects rather than interiors — carved amulets, jewellery, platters and pots — with fitness for purpose rather than beauty being the goal. By the 17thand 18thCenturies though, this had started to shift with ornamentation becoming a status symbol, the preserve of the elite, and monarchs, alone. Decoration was a means to show off, of literally having enough wealth to paper your walls with it — consider the Palace of Versailles — and the patterns themselves were determinedly emblematic of pomp and prestige: crests, laurels, crowns and other such representations of heightened hierarchy.

A commode designed by Jean-Henri Reisener (1734 -1806) and made for the Palace of Versailles in 1776.

A commode designed by Jean-Henri Reisener (1734 -1806) and made for the Palace of Versailles in 1776.

It was around this time that the British furniture maker Thomas Chippendale became the go-to man for decorative cabinetry and upholstery, producing extraordinarily detailed confections which owed a large debt to Chinoiserie alongside gilding, ribbons, swirls, scrolls, flowers, cherubs and ancient urns. Following his example, designers increasingly borrowed inspiration from anything and everything regardless of provenance or context; a look which persisted right into the early 19thCentury. One only need picture the exotic onion-shaped domes of the Brighton Pavilion, added in 1822 by the architect John Nash, as a prime example. This seaside folly cum pleasure palace for the Prince Regent, with its flamboyantly theatrical interiors by the London decorator John C Crace, plundered with abandon the Orient to the English countryside for ideas, and was quite the place to be seen.

The Royal Brighton Pavillion, built as a seaside pleasure palace for King George IV and extended into the splendid Oriental wonder that we see today by architect John Nash in 1815.

The Royal Brighton Pavillion, built as a seaside pleasure palace for King George IV and extended into the splendid Oriental wonder that we see today by architect John Nash in 1815.

This hand-painted paper was supplied in 1817 by Frederick Crace for the Saloon in the Royal Pavilion. It was described in the Crace ledgers as a ‘very fine set of India Paper, green ground, coloured flowers, birds, etc.’

This hand-painted paper was supplied in 1817 by Frederick Crace for the Saloon in the Royal Pavilion. It was described in the Crace ledgers as a ‘very fine set of India Paper, green ground, coloured flowers, birds, etc.’

But then fashions swing from one to the next with the regularity of a pendulum, and thus this eclectic madness was followed by a period of renewed reverence for classical forms: NeoClassicism. The Grand Tour became a rite of passage for the youth of the well-to-do seeking enlightenment, and the calming influences of Greek and Roman inspired motifs were felt worldwide. In short, everything got a bit more pared back, which in turn paved the way for the Industrial Revolution with the advent of mass production enabling its own new styles. The Singer sewing machine was patented in America in 1851, the same year as London’s Great Exhibition and with the ability to sew, print and craft that much faster, perhaps unsurprisingly, excess, heavy ornamentation, and patterns that were distinctly florid in style became de rigeur. An Italian art critic of the time, Mario Praz, rather aptly used the term, horror vacui, a fear of empty space, to describe the suffocating clutter of Victorian homes of the day.

Thankfully, by the late 19thCentury the winds of change blew in The Arts and Crafts movement which favoured a more delicate, respectful use of ornamentation firmly rooted in romantic visions of rural idylls, with man and nature in perfect accord. This was decoration as salvation for the soul and design with a moral compass, and it exuded a homely domestic simplicity that was in stark contrast to the overt fussiness that preceded it. Former theology student William Morris was duly galvanised by this search for ‘art with meaning’ and set about crafting his marital home, The Red House in Bexleyheath, as a personal paean to his views on the abundant use of fabric, texture and colour. The enthusiasm with which it was received led to the 1861 formation of his eponymous manufacturing company (testament to its enduring power, archive designs re-coloured for the 21stCentury in sedate shades of cream and gold have been enthusiastically received by contemporary pattern lovers), and quotes such as, ‘have nothing in your home which you do not either know to be useful or believe to be beautiful” entered the annuals of history.

The 'Acanthus' print from the William Morris Archive IV collection. The very first wallpaper released as Morris & Co.

The ‘Acanthus’ print from the William Morris Archive IV collection. The very first wallpaper released as Morris & Co.

'Burdock & Star' fabric from Morris & Co. Part of the Archive IV collection, it was originally based on a lilim used as part of the furnishings at Wightwick Manor. £164 per metre. Morris & Co.

‘Burdock & Star’ fabric from Morris & Co. Part of the Archive IV collection, it was originally based on a lilim used as part of the furnishings at Wightwick Manor. £164 per metre. Morris & Co.

However, this gilded age came screeching to a halt with the horror of the First World War. And afterwards, the gentle swoops and swirls of 1920s Art Deco found an appreciative audience desperate for escapism, as did the Oceanic themes that expressed the new glamour of travel by train and luxury liner, ten years later. This was a time evoked so elegantly by Agatha Christie’s diminutive detective Poirot and stories like Murder on the Orient Express; albeit admittedly it was also an era in which decoration became more about tasselled trims and fine finishes, than the wonders of weaves and wallpaper. Additionally, the lingering solemnity of post-war austerity meant that ideas of ‘design’ overtook ‘decoration’ with the latter being shunned for its perceived frivolity. Modernism of the 1930s had no place for pretty.

A victim in Agatha Christie's 'The ABC Murders' with Hercule Poirot worked at The De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill, built in 1935.

A victim in Agatha Christie’s ‘The ABC Murders’ with Hercule Poirot worked at The De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill, built in 1935.

Such a functional bias pre-empted the Second World War, and yet again, the aftermath was ‘New Look’ reactive. London’s Festival of Britain was staged exactly 100 years after the Great Exhibition to boost national moral, and with the Space Race waging between Russia and America, designers looked skywards for inspiration using abstract art, rings and dots suggestive of the Cosmos to adorn key pieces. But this was mere black and white compared to the Technicolour of the 1960s when fun, freedom, pop, plastic, and psychedelia reigned; simple geometrics and primary colours ruled, before whoosh went the style pendulum again, and in came the beige decade.

The 'Calyx' fabric by Lucienne Day, designed in 1951 and available today for £75/metre (width 140cm) from twentytwentyone

The ‘Calyx’ fabric by Lucienne Day, designed in 1951 and available today in a variety of colourways for £75/metre (width 140cm) from twentytwentyone.com

If ever there was a moment when politics dictated pattern, it was the oil crisis of 1973. The ensuing global recession replaced the optimism of the Swinging 60s with a national lack of confidence in a single left swipe. As viewed through the medium of print and pattern, the painterly, interpretative designs that had evolved through the previous two decades were instantly jettisoned in favour of warm cosy prints that reeked of nostalgia. For many Brits, the 1970s are indelibly associated with brands like Sanderson and Laura Ashley, purveyors of quiet, tasteful designs that leaned heavily on historical detail and traditional florals.

Original Sanderson linen fabric from the 1970s. On sale via rosemarysremnants.co.uk

Original Sanderson linen fabric from the 1970s. On sale via rosemarysremnants.co.uk

But it didn’t have to be this way. In Sweden, design groups like Marimekko, Tio Gruppen and Svenst Tenn, rebelled against the omnipresent negativity by producing resolutely happy, bold, primary-coloured prints. Ever ahead of the curve, the young Terence Conran stocked them all in his newly-launched Habitat, but beyond the avant garde hipsters of Kings Road, they didn’t find a particularly warm reception. After all, decades of indoctrination had instilled calculated coordination as the British decorating default, and adding to the general theme of inertia, the English home was typically furnished with heirlooms and hand-me-downs; hardly a climate in which the Swedish stripes and squiggles would find mainstream approval.

The 'Siirtolapuutarha' fabric design, a classic from Marrimekko

The ‘Siirtolapuutarha’ fabric design, a classic from Marrimekko.com

And then came IKEA. Although it officially launched in the UK in 1987, it only really hit home with a provocative series of TV adverts that ran in the late 1990s. These campaigns variously entreated us to “chuck out the chintz!” and “Stop being so English!”. They stuck a knife into the heart of the British malaise, and the UK’s nascent modern furniture industry was on its collective knees in gratitude, praying that the availability and keen price points of the Swedish giant might finally compel the Brits to shake off their attachment to the past. There is no doubt that IKEA’s subsequent rapid expansion exerted a huge influence in promoting the up-beat ideals of Swedish design, not least the uplifting power of its textiles.

The 'Malin Figur' cushion cover from IKEA, £7. Ikea.com

The ‘Malin Figur’ cushion cover from IKEA, £7. Ikea.com

And yet this might imply that Britain has been something of a slouch on the professional pattern-making front. Not so. Designers Guild, established by Tricia Guild in 1970, is globally famed for its confident, jolly florals; and let’s not forget Cole & Son, a company founded in 1873, a maker of papers for Buckingham Palace and going from strength to strength today with inspired new collections produced in collaboration with brands like the Milan-based Fornasetti, distinctive for its playful, allegorical prints. The key is that both companies manage to meld the weighty legacy of their British heritage with innovation, evolution and creativity.

'Chiave Segrete' wallpaper from the Fornasetti II Collection for Cole & Son.

‘Chiave Segrete’ wallpaper from the Fornasetti II Collection for Cole & Son. cole-and-son.com

'Maruko' in teal, from the Designers Guild A/W18 collection of exquisitely-drawn botanicals and leafy prints: 'A Decorative Balance'

‘Maruko’ in teal, from the Designers Guild A/W18 collection of exquisitely-drawn botanicals and leafy prints: ‘A Decorative Balance’

But crucially, in tandem with this, we have individually, step by baby step become braver in our tastes, and consequently the use and enjoyment of pattern has proliferated.Today the most interesting homes are a blend of styles that reference different eras and cultures in a glorious mix and mismatch; think English Cabbage Rose blooms rendered modern in new neutrals alongside inky IKAT prints, nautical stripes, Scottish plaids to Aztec abstracts and Modernist geometrics. It’s a reflection of our increasingly cosmopolitan outlook, a new more considered eclecticism, if you will, and one that stylistically at least, reflects a dissolution of national borders. Pattern as universal peace-keeper, who knew!

'Libertad' cushion by Lelièvre Paris, from the 'Evasions' collection. 100% Polyester, 40 x 40cm, £95.

‘Libertad’ cushion by Lelièvre Paris, from the ‘Evasions’ collection. 100% Polyester, 40 x 40cm, £95.

 

A version of this article was first published in the Summer edition of Neptune Stories magazine.

Categories: PRACTICALS, Trends

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